Decumulate & Downsize

Most of your investing life you and your adviser (if you have one) are focused on wealth accumulation. But, we tend to forget, eventually the whole idea of this long process of delayed gratification is to actually spend this money! That’s decumulation as opposed to wealth accumulation. This stage may also involve downsizing from larger homes to smaller ones or condos, moving to the country or otherwise simplifying your life and jettisoning possessions that may tie you down.

Determining your Financial Independence number

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By Mark Seed, MyOwnAdvisor

Special to the Financial Independence Hub

Passionate readers of this site have long understood I’ve never been fully convinced about the “retire early” element in the Financial Independence Retire Early (FIRE) movement.

I mean really, what 30- or 40-something is never going to work for any money ever again??

(Answer = you know it.)

Surely some of them will hustle a blog, a course, a book, a podcast or other at some point. The list goes on.

Such FIRE-seekers and very early retirees are not likely misleading people on purpose: some are just simply entrepreneurs …

Forget “RE”, “FI” is the worthy goal

While I couldn’t care less about the retire early part of FIRE, I am working towards the FI part and have been doing so for at least a decade now.

I think most people should absolutely strive for FI instead of early retirement. (See this 2019 blog, Strive for Financial Independence, not Early Retirement).

How much do you need to save for any comfortable retirement?

“It depends.”

According to Fidelity, to be on track for a healthy retirement:

  • You should have x1 your annual salary saved up for retirement by age 30.
  • You should have x3 your annual salary saved up for retirement by age 40.
  • You should have x6 your annual salary saved up for retirement by age 50.
  • You should have x8 your annual salary saved up for retirement by age 60.
  • You should have x10 your annual salary saved up for retirement by age 67.

As a 40-something, according to the pros we should have at least x3-x6 of our annual savings in the bank.

I’m glad I don’t listen to Fidelity. We’re beyond that milestone and we’ll be better off financially (sooner) because of it.

Here in Canada, MoneySense did some similar work on this a while back:

 

MoneySense - how much is enough

Do you really need this much? $1 million or $1.5 million? More?

“It depends.”

I can’t tell you unfortunately: since that answer comes with a complex set of income needs and wants and everyone’s spending goals are very, very different.

I can say with a rather firm set of certainty that if any Canadian or U.S. citizen that amasses this much portfolio value by age 65 and has modest spending needs they will be far better off financially than most.

Our FI number

For years, I’ve pegged our FI number to be around the $1 million portfolio value mark not including any home equity (and our soon-to-be debt-free home: we have to live somewhere!), excluding our workplace pensions, and excluding any future government pensions such as Canada Pension Plan or Old Age Security.

I largely arrived at this number by using a rather standard FI formula.

Financial Independence means:

  1. earning enough passive income from my assets such that my asset-producing passive income is > general expenses, and/or
  2. amassing a portfolio value such that reasonable withdrawals will be > general expenses for many decades on end.

What are reasonable withdrawals???

You could argue the birth of any reasonable and therefore any safe portfolio withdrawal formula was originated by U.S. financial advisor William Bengen.

4% rule

You can read about his genesis for the 4% rule and why it still makes sense by reading this blog from earlier this year: Why the 4% Rule is (still) a decent rule of thumb.

Following Bengen and largely reinforcing his work, three professors at Trinity University published a paper about safe retirement withdrawal rates.

Those professors looked at stock and bond data from the mid-1920s through to the mid-1970s and their conclusion was that essentially over any 30-year investment period in that range, a retiree could safely withdraw 4% of their total assets per year without much fear (meaning barely any fear) of running out of money. Only in a handful of cases, the very worst cases in any 30-year period, would the portfolio go to absolute zero.

So, let’s look at that context when it comes to our goals:

If we managed to enter retirement with our desired $1 million goal of invested assets (along with no debt of course), then we could reasonably expect to assume we could withdraw $40,000 per year for our living expenses from that portfolio with very little fear of running out of money.

Henceforth, the study by those three professors from Trinity University, The Trinity Study, have set the framework for a gazillion FI number crunching exercises to this day and likely the same number into the future …

Determining your FI number 

Here are some options to crunch your math. Continue Reading…

10 ideas for a Mini-Retirement lasting 6 months to 2 years

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Working a nine-to-five routine can be draining. The practice of taking time away from work for an extended period of time has become increasingly popular among employees. This “mini-retirement” can help professionals recharge and provide a much-needed break from a strenuous daily routine.

Although you may not be planning on taking a mini-retirement, brainstorming ideas of what you’d want to achieve during this period may help you align your purpose and goals within your professional career.

Below, we asked 10 thought leaders to share their ideas for things to enjoy during a mini-retirement.

Explore a new industry

Leave your normal career to explore investing or real estate. Choose something that you might not have the chance to focus on while working full time as a great way to spend a mini-retirement. Diving into topics that you are interested in and really taking the time to research and learn more about these topics could prove to make you money in the long run. – Rex Murphey, Montauk Services

Do something Book Worthy

My barometer for doing anything is considering whether the endeavor is worthy of a book. If I had six to 24 months to do anything, I’d first think about what the topic or title of the book would be. Then, I’d outline the table of contents. After the outline, I’d live out each chapter idea to the extent that I could fill the pages about the desired topic. That framework could be applied to any retirement idea from “The Ultimate Guide To Tapas in Spain” to “Everything To Know About Making a Documentary In a Third World Country.” But, as long as the mini-retirement idea is book-worthy, then I’m guaranteeing myself that the topic is deep enough to keep me continuously engaged and satisfied. — Brett Farmiloe, Markitors

Pursue knowledge

I love learning but due to my hectic work schedule, I usually don’t find time to study. So I’d want to learn and focus on self-development during my mini-retirement. I’d want to apply for a scholarship to fund my postgraduate program. Other than that, I’d want to learn new languages and travel. Maybe I’d go abroad for studies as it’ll give me a chance to travel as well. — William Taylor, VelvetJobs

Take an extended Holiday

Plan a holiday that you have been waiting for. This could be to a domestic location or an international destination. Make sure your finances are sorted and that the holiday fits into your current budget. Set aside enough money to last during this time, then take some time to focus on getting your career back up before the mini-retirement is over. — Joe Flanagan, GetSongbpm

Take a Road Trip in an RV

Retirement would lead to a few exciting travel options. The most exciting would be buying a Cruise America refurbished RV and traveling the United States.  Pack and unpack once for a journey of a lifetime and stay as long as you want in each location.  I think a one year trip around North America would be one of the most bucket list items one could experience and imagine all the amazing places you could visit and the memories that would be created. — Randall Smalley, Cruise America

Switch to freelance or part-time Work

A good way to do this is to either freelance or work as a consultant on a part-time basis. The main benefit of doing this is that, in most fields of work, you’re able to do this online. This means you’ll be able to work from wherever you wish to enjoy life for some time. Whether it be a beach in southeast Asia or in an RV around Europe, working in this way gives you the flexibility to enjoy your time off from full-time work. It also lets you choose just which assignments to accept during this period, allowing you to work as much or as little as you want. Is your budget running a bit low? Maybe it’s time to ramp up your hours. Alternatively, are you about to go off the grid for some time? Close your laptop and off you go. — Anna Barker, LogicalDollar

Revisit your childhood interests

I would dust off my childhood fantasies about what I liked to do. One recurring theme on the Rock Your Retirement podcast is that many of us are not prepared mentally for retirement. We need to have a purpose in life. Continue Reading…

Buying a home in Retirement? You’ll need these Resources

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Photo Credit: Rawpixel

By Sharon Wagner

Special to the Financial Independence Hub

Buying a home and preparing for retirement can be stressful enough on their own, so when the two intersect it can be easy to feel like you’re in over your head. With some careful planning, you can avoid a lot of the headaches that often go with buying a new home. These resources can assist with making informed choices when it comes to budgeting for your new home and your move.

Planning & paying for your new home

Money can be tight in retirement, so it’s important for you to think carefully about all of the potential expenses that can come with purchasing a new home.

Address retirement finance concerns before diving in; you can access reliable information through Financial Independence Hub.

Preparing for the costs of Aging in Place

Aging in place features are important for seniors, so make sure you know which features to look for and what costs to expect.

Decluttering & downsizing your current home

Cut stress and expense by decluttering and budgeting for help.
Continue Reading…

Retired Money: You can still count on 4% Rule but there are alternatives to settling for less

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MoneySense.ca; Photo created by senivpetro – www.freepik.com

My latest MoneySense Retired Money column looks at that perpetually useful guideline known as the 4% Rule. Click on the highlighted headline to access the full article online: Is the 4% Rule Obsolete?

As originally postulated by CFP and author William Bengen, that’s the Rule of Thumb that retirees can safely withdraw 4% of the value of their portfolio each year without fear of running out of money in retirement, with adjustments for inflation.

But does the Rule still hold when interest rates are approaching zero? Personally I still find it useful, even though I mentally take it down to 3% to adjust for my personal pessimism about rates and optimism that I will live a long healthy life. The column polls several experts, some of whom still find it a useful starting point, while others believe several adjustments may be necessary.

Fee-only planner Robb Engen, the blogger behind Boomer & Echo, is “not a fan of the 4% rule.” For one, he says Canadians are forced to withdraw increasingly higher amounts once we convert our RRSPs into RRIFs so the 4% Rule is “not particularly useful either … We’re also living longer, and there’s a movement to want to retire earlier. So shouldn’t that mean a safe withdrawal rate of much less than 4%?”

It’s best to be flexible. It may be intuitively obvious but if your portfolio is way down, you should withdraw less than 4% a year. If and when it recovers, you can make up for it by taking out more than 4%. “This might still average 4% over the long term but you are going to give your portfolio a much higher likelihood of being sustainable.”

Still, some experts are still enthusiastic about the rule.  On his site earlier this year, republished here on the Hub, Robb Engen cited U.S. financial planning expert Michael Kitces, who believes there’s a highly probable chance retirees using the 4% rule over 30 years will end up with even more money than they started with, and a very low chance they’ll spend their entire nest egg.

Retirees may need to consider more aggressive asset allocation

Other advisors think retirees need to get more comfortable with risk and tilt their portfolios a little more in favor of equities. Adrian Mastracci, fiduciary portfolio manager with Vancouver-based Lycos Asset Management Inc., views 4% as “likely the safe upper limit for many of today’s portfolios.” Like me, he sees 3% as offering more flexibility for an uncertain future. Continue Reading…

Are you tax planning for you …. or for your estate?

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By Aaron Hector, B.Comm., CFP, RFP, TEP

Special to the Financial Independence Hub

“In this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.” – Benjamin Franklin

While death and taxes may be certain, the variables in and around them are certainly not. That’s why they warrant attention and planning. The following analysis provides some food for thought when deciding whether to use proactive tax planning to optimize your living net-worth or your after-tax estate.

A tisket, a tasket, a future tax basket

Most retirees have baskets of “future tax” that are just sitting there in abeyance. The most common of these tax baskets is the one that’s attached to RRSP accounts. When you contribute to your RRSP, you get a tax deduction which gives you a break on the taxes payable in that year. But when the time eventually comes to make a withdrawal, each dollar you remove from your RRSP will be fully taxable and increase your income accordingly.

Depending on the situation, there could be several other future tax baskets as well. For example, you might have unrealized capital gains that are attached to a non-registered investment account, or even an additional property. When these assets are sold in the future, the capital gain at that time will be subject to taxation.

Our tax system is progressive, which means the tax rates continue to increase as your income does, thus moving you from a lower tax bracket to a higher one. When you die (without a surviving spouse), all of the remaining tax baskets are dealt with at that time. This often results in a significant amount of taxable income that’s exposed to the highest marginal tax rates which can exceed 50%, depending on your province of residency.

Managing future tax

What can be done to manage this future tax in a way that avoids exposure to such high tax rates? One popular approach is to look at your projected retirement income and identify when in the future there might be years where income is lower than average or higher than average, and then try and shift income away from the high years to fill in the low years. This “tax averaging” often results in an acceleration of income in earlier years, which then lowers the exposure to high tax rates later in life or upon death.

If you think this sounds challenging, remember that any financial planner worth their salt should be able to review your assets and liabilities, then map out your projected income going forward on a year-by-year basis. The low-income years most commonly occur immediately following retirement; the paycheque has stopped, but maybe you have ample cash and non-registered savings that can be used to fund your lifestyle. It’s quite possible that the income you would report on your tax return in these years would be minimal. However, by the end of the year that you turn 71 your RRSP accounts must be converted into RRIF accounts, giving rise to forced annual withdrawals that are fully taxable. These mandatory withdrawals might mark the beginning of your high-income retirement years and may even result in your Old Age Security (OAS) being clawed back. That being said, it really depends on one’s individual circumstances.

The nice thing about the future tax is that, for the most part, you have flexibility in deciding when you convert that future tax into current tax. Just because you can wait until age 72, when you are forced to make your first withdrawal from your RRSP (RRIF), doesn’t mean that you must wait until you are 72. Furthermore, this doesn’t need to be a cash flow decision. If you don’t need the money to fund your lifestyle, then you can simply take the money that is withdrawn from the RRSP and then (subject to withholding taxes) reinvest it back into another account such as your TFSA or non-registered account. The point here is that you have the option of choosing what you believe to be an optimal year to increase the amount of income that will be reported on your tax return.

Similarly, you can choose to trigger a capital gain within a non-registered account at any time. A sale of a stock doesn’t need to be an investment decision – it can be a tax decision. Simply sell the stock, thereby triggering the capital gain, and then immediately rebuy it. The capital gain will then be reported on your tax return in the year it was sold, and your taxable income will be increased accordingly.

In a nutshell, every dollar of income that you accelerate is a dollar of income that you don’t have to report in the future, and you get to choose what tax rates get applied to that dollar; the current marginal rate, or the future marginal rate (which could be higher). It’s easy to see how this process can result in your paying a lower average lifetime tax rate.

How to impact your lifetime assets and estate

Let’s dig a bit deeper. How do these choices carry forward and impact your lifetime assets and ultimately your estate? I’ll begin with some foundational ideas and then provide a real-life example.

Imagine a scenario where your current marginal tax rate is 30% while living, but if you died then the marginal tax rate on your final tax return would be 50%. Continue Reading…