Tag Archives: Financial Independence

More time is a goal worth chasing

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By Mark Seed, MyOwnAdvisor

Special to the Financial Independence Hub

“Happy Weekend!” this blog or friends or others will exclaim!

On that note, most of us (myself included) are always so happy to see the weekend arrive, or a given weekday dawn, depending upon your schedule or shift of course to enjoy some well-deserved time off from work.

Yet as I inch closer to fulfilling my semi-retirement dreams (our latest financial independence update you can find right here) I often wonder if every day is going to feel like a Saturday in the years to come.

I mean, part of me hopes so, when I think of time. Finding a much broader, balanced approach to work and fun …

Here are some of the perspectives I’ve been thinking recently when it comes to work, play, time, and to the point of this blog, what does money have to do with it.

If you really enjoy your job, does it feel like work?

While there never seems to be enough time for anything these days outside of work (blame your lost downtime on your social media time for starters!), I’ve often wondered about folks who really, really love their job – does it feel like work to them anymore?

Here are some signs of that:

  • New tasks or assignments don’t annoy you or bother you, in fact, you might get your energy from them.
  • You enjoy seeing the results of your craft frequently.
  • You enjoy working with those around you or people you deliver products and services for.
  • You are continually inspired by work.

I’m sure there are more …

There are definitely elements of the above that apply to my current role with my employer but as I get closer to realizing my financial independence, I must say I’m very much looking forward to the day whereby my most of my time (therefore not money whatsoever) is the ultimate management goal.

While time is money can be true in many corporate circumstances, the inverse is true after you realize financial independence – money has purchased some discretionary, finite time for you to use as you please. Financial independence makes work either far more fun or just simply optional.

Money does buy happiness to a point

Despite rising incomes, standards of living increasing around the world over time, people are also feeling increasingly pressed for time, anxious and stressed about well-being. With this rising income, happiness only increases to a point – surveys from various studies have shown that money only buys so much happiness.

Depending on the study you want to draw from, psychologists have found that modest life satisfaction comes from earning anywhere between $60,000 to $75,000 USD per year. Some families with children of course may need (and want) more, let alone individuals as well.

Time Spent and Money Spent

Now, certainly, if you make more money than this income per year could you be happier? I suppose that is quite possible and very likely for many of us. But my point is based on many studies, considerable orders of money beyond this income-level will not buy the equivalent amount of increased happiness. The relationships you have and the stable family environment you might enjoy, probably do. Your health is your ultimate form of wealth. That well-being will give you tremendous happiness too. In fact, with your health, it has been written and studied that volunteering, just as one example of giving, has been shown to minimize stress, reduce incidence of depression, and reduce long-term cognitive impairment – helping us live longer and more notably, a happier life.

So, while making good money is all well and good; while having a high net worth can absolutely signal to you and others “you’ve made it” happiness unlike money has a tipping point. Money is only part of what might make you truly happy.

A good reminder that any art of comparison to others can be the thief of joy.

Time is the ultimate currency

When it comes to investing, we’ve all heard that it’s time in the market that becomes your best friend (not trying to time the market itself).

That’s because the earlier you start investing, the more time your money has to work for you. Continue Reading…

Determining your Financial Independence number

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By Mark Seed, MyOwnAdvisor

Special to the Financial Independence Hub

Passionate readers of this site have long understood I’ve never been fully convinced about the “retire early” element in the Financial Independence Retire Early (FIRE) movement.

I mean really, what 30- or 40-something is never going to work for any money ever again??

(Answer = you know it.)

Surely some of them will hustle a blog, a course, a book, a podcast or other at some point. The list goes on.

Such FIRE-seekers and very early retirees are not likely misleading people on purpose: some are just simply entrepreneurs …

Forget “RE”, “FI” is the worthy goal

While I couldn’t care less about the retire early part of FIRE, I am working towards the FI part and have been doing so for at least a decade now.

I think most people should absolutely strive for FI instead of early retirement. (See this 2019 blog, Strive for Financial Independence, not Early Retirement).

How much do you need to save for any comfortable retirement?

“It depends.”

According to Fidelity, to be on track for a healthy retirement:

  • You should have x1 your annual salary saved up for retirement by age 30.
  • You should have x3 your annual salary saved up for retirement by age 40.
  • You should have x6 your annual salary saved up for retirement by age 50.
  • You should have x8 your annual salary saved up for retirement by age 60.
  • You should have x10 your annual salary saved up for retirement by age 67.

As a 40-something, according to the pros we should have at least x3-x6 of our annual savings in the bank.

I’m glad I don’t listen to Fidelity. We’re beyond that milestone and we’ll be better off financially (sooner) because of it.

Here in Canada, MoneySense did some similar work on this a while back:

 

MoneySense - how much is enough

Do you really need this much? $1 million or $1.5 million? More?

“It depends.”

I can’t tell you unfortunately: since that answer comes with a complex set of income needs and wants and everyone’s spending goals are very, very different.

I can say with a rather firm set of certainty that if any Canadian or U.S. citizen that amasses this much portfolio value by age 65 and has modest spending needs they will be far better off financially than most.

Our FI number

For years, I’ve pegged our FI number to be around the $1 million portfolio value mark not including any home equity (and our soon-to-be debt-free home: we have to live somewhere!), excluding our workplace pensions, and excluding any future government pensions such as Canada Pension Plan or Old Age Security.

I largely arrived at this number by using a rather standard FI formula.

Financial Independence means:

  1. earning enough passive income from my assets such that my asset-producing passive income is > general expenses, and/or
  2. amassing a portfolio value such that reasonable withdrawals will be > general expenses for many decades on end.

What are reasonable withdrawals???

You could argue the birth of any reasonable and therefore any safe portfolio withdrawal formula was originated by U.S. financial advisor William Bengen.

4% rule

You can read about his genesis for the 4% rule and why it still makes sense by reading this blog from earlier this year: Why the 4% Rule is (still) a decent rule of thumb.

Following Bengen and largely reinforcing his work, three professors at Trinity University published a paper about safe retirement withdrawal rates.

Those professors looked at stock and bond data from the mid-1920s through to the mid-1970s and their conclusion was that essentially over any 30-year investment period in that range, a retiree could safely withdraw 4% of their total assets per year without much fear (meaning barely any fear) of running out of money. Only in a handful of cases, the very worst cases in any 30-year period, would the portfolio go to absolute zero.

So, let’s look at that context when it comes to our goals:

If we managed to enter retirement with our desired $1 million goal of invested assets (along with no debt of course), then we could reasonably expect to assume we could withdraw $40,000 per year for our living expenses from that portfolio with very little fear of running out of money.

Henceforth, the study by those three professors from Trinity University, The Trinity Study, have set the framework for a gazillion FI number crunching exercises to this day and likely the same number into the future …

Determining your FI number 

Here are some options to crunch your math. Continue Reading…

How to reduce your Household bills

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By Jenny Hughes

Special to the Financial Independence Hub

The average American has close to $40,000 [US$ throughout] in non-mortgage debt, also known as “bad debt.” This debt will cost them close to $250,000 in lifetime interest and more than three quarters will die with unpaid balances.

It’s a tragic statistic, and it’s getting worse, which is why so many Americans [and many Canadians too!] are looking into programs like student loan debt relief, tax debt relief, and debt settlement, among others. But as effective as these programs are, the best money-saving methods begin at home.

In this guide, we’ll show you some ways to reduce your household bills, potentially saving hundreds of dollars a year, all of which can go toward clearing your debts.

Get rid of unnecessary subscriptions

North Americans are wasting vast sums of money on subscription services, most of which are underused and unnecessary. It’s such a prevalent issue, that we guarantee everyone reading this will have fallen into the same trap.

Don’t believe us? Here’s a quick test:

Without looking at your bank statements, calculate roughly how much you spend every month on digital subscription services, including TV services, online services, etc.,

If you’re like the average American, you probably calculated a total of between $50 and $80, which is respectable, but probably false.

Did you remember to include Netflix, Amazon Prime, Hulu? What about web domains, Xbox/Playstation subscriptions, loot boxes, and cloud storage services?

The problem with digital subscriptions is that they often cost just a few bucks and are purchased on a whim. The average consumer doesn’t think twice about purchasing them because what’s an extra $5 or $10 a month? But as more of these services are added, that extra $5 turns into $50, and before you know it, you’re spending $600 a year on services you don’t need.

A 2018 survey asked the same question to 2,500 participants and found a massive 84% grossly underestimated how much they spent on digital subscriptions. And this is just the tip of the iceberg, as there are also gym subscriptions, grocery deliveries, and countless other subscriptions that leech money from your bank account every month.

The trick is not to think about the monthly cost but to calculate the yearly one. $5 a month seems like a sensible choice for a new media subscription, especially if it means you can watch that new series everyone’s talking about. But what happens three years down the line when you forget to cancel and only ever watch one episode? You’ve just wasted $150 to consume 45 minutes of TV.

Make your Home more efficient

Install energy-saving lightbulbs, low-flow toilets and shower heads; fix leaky faucets; insulate your doors and windows, and stop relying on costly air conditioning units. All these tips can reduce your monthly bills, but they’re just the tip of the iceberg.

American and Canadian households are filled with electrical devices — TVs, video gaming consoles, computers — and most of these are either active or on standby. They constantly draw a charge, which means you’re paying for them around-the-clock, and those charges can add up.

When a device is not in use, turn it off. This also applies to your heating, cooling, and lighting.

Watch those Food bills

The average family spends close to $3,000 on takeout and restaurant food, and roughly $7,000 on groceries. That’s $10,000 on food, and while it’s a necessity that can’t be avoided, how that money is spent desperately needs to change. Continue Reading…

5 steps to take to retire before 40

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By Veronica Baxter

Special to the Financial Independence Hub

So you think you want to retire early? Here are five proven steps to take to make that happen, if by “retiring” you mean no longer working.

Step #1:  Work Wisely

Notice that this does not say work hard, or work 80 hours a week. To work wisely means to choose a job or a career that is lucrative and that you get some satisfaction from. You don’t have to love or even enjoy your job but you do have to tolerate it and feel a sense of self-respect in being paid to do it.

If you are still in school there are career services where you can seek counseling about what sort of careers pay well that you might be able to do and feel satisfied doing. Oddly enough, right now our economy needs more tradespeople because the boomers brought their children up to expect to go to college and get a white-collar job. As a result, there are fewer workers in trades such as plumbing, electrical, carpentry, and these people are in high demand.

Whatever you choose to do, ideally, you want to be your own boss eventually. That way you have control over the quality and quantity of work and you also have control over business expenses, which you can then keep to a minimum. Then if you can grow your business and eventually have employees work for you, you can multiply your earnings by however many people work for you. Then, eventually training someone to supervise the work means you can step back and… perhaps retire!

Whatever you decide to do, craft a 2-year plan, a 5-year plan, a 10-year plan, and a 20-year plan. These plans should include training or education goals, financial goals, and a vision of what your work life looks like at every stage. Revisit these plans in an annual self-audit to keep yourself on track, and revise them if necessary. You’ve heard of the phrase, “fail to plan, plan to fail”? Well, it’s true. Harness your imagination and dream big. Reach for the stars, you may get the moon.

Step #2:  Pay Yourself First

This is crucial. When you craft your household budget, the first expense you must pay is into your savings or retirement account. What percentage of your income you put aside is up to you, but first, you will need an emergency fund of 6-8 months’ living expenses, then you will need to put money aside for retirement.

There are online calculators that can help you figure out how much you will need to live off the income from investments, or, you can seek the advice of a financial planner to help you figure out how much to set aside and to select the right investment vehicle for your goals. Keep in mind that if you plan to retire before age 40, you will need investment vehicles in addition to traditional tax-deferred retirement plans because you will be too young to withdraw from those.

Step #3:  Live Below Your Means

Whatever percentage of your income you decide to set aside, you should figure out how to live comfortably on 80% of the remainder. Why? Because having what you perceive as “extra” money at the end of the month gives you a mental boost like nothing else. When you feel like you are in control of your finances and you have more than enough money to do what you need to do, you are activating the law of attraction.

What do you do with that “extra” money? Take a small portion and treat yourself in some small way to reward yourself for being frugal, then invest the rest in your business or deposit it in your investment accounts.

Step #4:  Maintain Good Credit

It is crucial that you pay all bills in full and on time. Take out and use credit cards, especially if there is some sort of reward for use such as cashback or airline miles, but pay them off every month. Get a car loan. Continue Reading…

How (and When) to Rebalance your portfolio

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Setting up the initial asset allocation for your investment portfolio is fairly straightforward. The challenge is knowing how and when to rebalance your portfolio. Stock and bond prices move up and down, and you periodically add new money – all of which can throw off your initial targets.

Let’s say you’re an index investor like me and use one of the Canadian Couch Potato’s model portfolios – TD’s e-Series funds. An initial investment of $50,000 might have a target asset allocation that looks something like this:

Fund Value Allocation Change
Canadian Index $12,500 25% —
U.S. Index $12,500 25% —
International Index $12,500 25% —
Canadian Bond Index $12,500 25% —

The key to maintaining this target asset mix is to periodically rebalance your portfolio. Why? Because your well-constructed portfolio will quickly get out of alignment as you add new money to your investments and as individual funds start to fluctuate with the movements of the market.

Indeed, different asset classes produce different returns over time, so naturally your portfolio’s asset allocation changes. At the end of one year, it wouldn’t be surprising to see your nice, clean four-fund portfolio look more like this:

Fund Value Allocation Change
Canadian Index $11,680 21.5% (6.6%)
U.S. Index $15,625 28.9% +25%
International Index $14,187 26.2% +13.5%
Canadian Bond Index $12,725 23.4% +1.8%

Do you see how each of the funds has drifted away from its initial asset allocation? Now you need a rebalancing strategy to get your portfolio back into alignment.

Rebalance your portfolio by date or by threshold?

Some investors prefer to rebalance according to a calendar: making monthly, quarterly, or annual adjustments. Other investors prefer to rebalance whenever an investment exceeds (or drops below) a specific threshold.

In our example, that could mean when one of the funds dips below 20 per cent, or rises above 30 per cent of the portfolio’s overall asset allocation.

Don’t overdo it. There is no optimal frequency or threshold when selecting a rebalancing strategy. However, you can’t reasonably expect to keep your portfolio in exact alignment with your target asset allocation at all times. Rebalance your portfolio too often and your costs increase (commissions, taxes, time) without any of the corresponding benefits.

According to research by Vanguard, annual or semi-annual monitoring with rebalancing at 5 per cent thresholds is likely to produce a reasonable balance between controlling risk and minimizing costs for most investors.

Rebalance by adding new money

One other consideration is when you’re adding new money to your portfolio on a regular basis. For me, since I’m in the accumulation phase and investing regularly, I simply add new money to the fund that’s lagging behind its target asset allocation.

For instance, our kids’ RESP money is invested in three TD e-Series funds. Each month I contribute $416.66 into the RESP portfolio and then I need to decide how to allocate it – which fund gets the money?

 

Rebalancing TD e-Series Funds

My target asset mix is to have one-third in each of the Canadian, U.S., and International index funds. As you can see, I’ve done a really good job keeping this portfolio’s asset allocation in-line.

How? I always add new money to the fund that’s lagging behind in market value. So my next $416.66 contribution will likely go into the International index fund.

It’s interesting to note that the U.S. index fund has the lowest book value and least number of units held. I haven’t had to add much new money to this fund because the U.S. market has been on fire; increasing 65 per cent since I’ve held it, versus just 8 per cent each for the International and Canadian index funds.

One big household investment portfolio

Wouldn’t all this asset allocation business be easier if we only had one investment portfolio to manage? Unfortunately, many of us are dealing with multiple accounts, from RRSPs, to TFSAs, and even non-registered accounts. Some also have locked-in retirement accounts from previous jobs with investments that need to be managed.

The best advice with respect to asset allocation across multiple investment accounts is to treat your accounts as one big household portfolio. Continue Reading…